Curious Travels

La Union is a coastal province in the Ilocos Region of Luzon, the largest island in the Philippines. Known for its surf culture, sandy beaches, and lively nightlife, it has become a popular destination for both local and international travelers. The provincial capital is San Fernando, which also serves as the regional center for commerce and government.

In the spring of 2024, I made my way to La Union from Cabanatuan City in Nueva Ecija province. Nueva Ecija is famously called the “Rice Granary of the Philippines” because it produces the country’s largest rice yields. I had spent the majority of my trip in this agricultural heartland, surrounded by golden fields and the gentle pace of rural life.

The bus journey from Nueva Ecija to La Union involved a couple of transfers. Each bus station was a burst of energy—chaotic, noisy, and full of life—but also practical, offering travelers quick snacks, bottled water, and restrooms. As we traveled north, I watched the scenery shift from rice paddies and quiet villages to coastal towns with the smell of saltwater in the air. Along the way, I spotted water buffalo grazing in the fields, a classic sight in the rural Philippines.

The La Union Experience

La Union is best known for its surfing culture—a relaxed, barefoot lifestyle that blends sport, socializing, and the simple joy of being near the ocean. Its main surfing hub, San Juan, attracts both seasoned surfers and beginners looking to ride their first waves. Lessons are easy to arrange, and boards can be rented for a reasonable price right on the beach.

I decided to give surfing a try, and it was here that I learned just how much physical endurance it takes to paddle out repeatedly and stay balanced on the board. By the end of my first session, I was sunburned, exhausted, and completely hooked. The combination of warm water, gentle waves for beginners, and the thrill of standing on a surfboard made it an unforgettable experience.

When the sun sets, La Union’s nightlife comes alive. Beachfront hostels and bars glow with warm lights, and the air fills with the sound of live music, laughter, and the clink of glasses. Tourists and locals mingle easily, creating a friendly, laid-back vibe. I met a few new friends from different parts of the Philippines, and we spent the evening eating and chatting at a hostel by the shore, with the sound of waves crashing in the background.

The food scene in La Union is another highlight. Fresh seafood, grilled meats, and tropical fruits are everywhere, often served with a local twist. Many beachfront cafés also serve excellent coffee, perfect for a slow morning after a night of music and conversation.

A Short but Sweet Stay

I only spent two days in La Union, but I truly wished I had more time. Unfortunately, my flight back to Canada was just a few days away, and I had to return to Cabanatuan to pack my belongings.

While my time there was short, the memories I took with me were lasting—the hospitality of the family I stayed with in Cabanatuan, the kindness of strangers I met along the journey, and the joy of learning something new in such a beautiful setting. La Union is not just a surfing destination; it’s a place where you can slow down, connect with people, and enjoy the simple pleasures of life by the sea.